Post by Ron Kulas on Dec 4, 2013 11:53:14 GMT -6
A few months ago I created a thread asking if anybody patented an idea for the hunting world. I then looked into getting a provisional patent for an idea I had been kicking around. During the search I saw that there are a good many patents already out there for the general concept I envisioned even if they are not being used as I intended to use them so I said to heck with the whole patent idea and will explain it here should anybody else care to make their own. I just completed our state’s archery deer season and used this idea to evaluate the concept over several months of use.
The premise is that you are a user of an O3 Ozone scent eliminator and that you want a vessel or container that is large enough for all your hunting gear yet small enough to take with you anywhere you hunt including remote hunts. The container has to keep odors out and the O3 in. It has to be well organized using compartments so that small stuff like releases, range finders, socks, underwear, etc are kept separate of hanging clothes and dirty boots so there is a place for everything and everything in its place. Currently if you are using a plastic tote/bin you know that there is no organization and generally the bin is crammed so full that it’s doubtful the O3 is reaching everything you are trying to deodorize. Its also likely that you are not placing your dirty boots in the bin because they take up so much space and because they are dirty enough that you don’t want them to contaminate your other gear. If you use the typical Rubbermaid bin/tote, you understand they don’t stand up to cold weather use and crack easily and don’t offer organization and are generally too small for all your gear. (see link for typical tote)
www.rubbermaid.com/Category/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?CatName=Storage&SubcatId=Roughneck&Prod_ID=RP091417
Because I cant find a commercial version of what I want and because I like to sew and make my own gear, I came up with my own. My concept is for a collapsible/portable closet that takes up little space when empty and being transported to your hunting destination but then is expanded and can be hung from a closet rod in a hotel or a tree branch in your camp site or in a wall tent or the topper of your truck or anywhere you intend to call camp and can find a place to hang it. The O3 units I use (made by Whitetailer ) have the option of running off AAA batteries, a regular 110 outlet or the cig lighter outlet in your vehicle so no matter where you are, you can power the O3 unit.
The internal frame for the prototypes I’ve made have been made of wood and Military paracord. The external skin, I have sewn out of materials that won’t let air pass through such as light weight Vinyl upholstery and then 500 Denier Cordura with a Polyurethane coating on the back side. The intent is to have the internal frame carry the entire load rather than the fabric shell carrying the load as a way of avoiding tearing the fabric.
If you are handy with modest woodworking skills and can sew or know somebody that can sew for you, you might consider making such a container for yourself. I will use this thread to detail the idea so that you can make your own if you are so inclined.
Ill start with the hanger. I’m sure there are other ways to pull this off but here is what I did. The internal structure is paracord running up all four corners and each cord needs to be adjusted/tensioned to make the bag hang level. The hanger is made from a small block of wood, some cord and tubing to protect the cord. The additional holes are for tensioning the paracord corners of the bag.
The top and bottom of the structure are again a wooden frame and lightweight composite wood such as is used for clipboards or lightweight plywood but other materials will also work. The middle of the frame is also thin strips of wood that you will see shortly. The lower portion of the frame becomes the support for boots.
The top section supports a closet rod for your hanging gear. The rod is not fixed so that it hangs low enough to hook a hanger over it without interfering with the fabric bag yet can move up and out of the way when the frame is collapsed during transport. That is also accomplished with paracord.
The frame is then assembled by running the paracord through all the wooden pieces and knots tied in the cord to properly position the two thin strips of wood in the center. For organizational purposes, zippered mesh bag are attached to the frame before the outer skin is attached. These bags are for your smaller items like releases, rangefinders, socks, floppy or knit hats, etc. The bottom tray supports two pair of boots (I wear size 13 so I made the bag larger than my boots) and the hanger hold you jackets, pants etc. I have loaded this frame with 75 pounds of weight with no negative effects to the frame or cord. My clothing does not weigh anywhere near that much. When empty this frame collapses down to a very thin footprint and weighs about 3 pounds.
The outer skin is a 500 denier Cordura for it durability in the field and its PU coating has the ability to keep odors out and O3 in. Duffle bags, boot uppers and fanny packs use this fabric because its strong and durable.
The bag is sewn inside out and then inverted so the stitching and seams don’t show.
Two zippers are added to access the contents of the bag. A rain flap is attached over the horizontal zipper. A slit is cut in the back for the power cord of the O3 unit (should you elect to power it from a wall outlet or cig lighter on your truck.) A fifth mesh bag (not shown) is attached to the top of the frame to hold the O3 unit. The slit for the power cord is located near that mesh bag.
Four small holes are poked in the top of the bag to run the paracord to the hanger. The bag is slightly taller than the frame so the frame bears the weight of the contents and not the bag.
One half of the Velcro combination is sewn into the top of the bag sewn into a webbing strap that reaches the bottom of the bag (when collapsed) and the other half of the Velcro is sewn into the bottom of the bag so that when collapsed, the bag holds its small footprint for transport.
I even went so far as to create my own packaging to protect the bag during transport but a sewn bag (like is used with pop up blind) would also work.
So my patent search indicated that there are many patents for wardrobes, and travel bags and portable closets and even some for O3 products even if they are not in production so Im sharing it here for those interested in making their own. If you’re an O3 user looking for a more transportable container that is a bit more organized than a plastic tote. You may consider making one of these. After using two of them (I kept one at home and another went with my on my trips) I am pleased with the practicality and usability of this portable closet. It holds all my gear (and then some.) It measures 14 by 28 by 48 or about 19,000 cubic inches (11 cubic feet) of storage when expanded but only takes up 5,500 cubic inches during transport or 29% of it’s expanded size. If your like me you want something other than a plastic tote with more organization and capacity to use with your O3 equipment.
The premise is that you are a user of an O3 Ozone scent eliminator and that you want a vessel or container that is large enough for all your hunting gear yet small enough to take with you anywhere you hunt including remote hunts. The container has to keep odors out and the O3 in. It has to be well organized using compartments so that small stuff like releases, range finders, socks, underwear, etc are kept separate of hanging clothes and dirty boots so there is a place for everything and everything in its place. Currently if you are using a plastic tote/bin you know that there is no organization and generally the bin is crammed so full that it’s doubtful the O3 is reaching everything you are trying to deodorize. Its also likely that you are not placing your dirty boots in the bin because they take up so much space and because they are dirty enough that you don’t want them to contaminate your other gear. If you use the typical Rubbermaid bin/tote, you understand they don’t stand up to cold weather use and crack easily and don’t offer organization and are generally too small for all your gear. (see link for typical tote)
www.rubbermaid.com/Category/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?CatName=Storage&SubcatId=Roughneck&Prod_ID=RP091417
Because I cant find a commercial version of what I want and because I like to sew and make my own gear, I came up with my own. My concept is for a collapsible/portable closet that takes up little space when empty and being transported to your hunting destination but then is expanded and can be hung from a closet rod in a hotel or a tree branch in your camp site or in a wall tent or the topper of your truck or anywhere you intend to call camp and can find a place to hang it. The O3 units I use (made by Whitetailer ) have the option of running off AAA batteries, a regular 110 outlet or the cig lighter outlet in your vehicle so no matter where you are, you can power the O3 unit.
The internal frame for the prototypes I’ve made have been made of wood and Military paracord. The external skin, I have sewn out of materials that won’t let air pass through such as light weight Vinyl upholstery and then 500 Denier Cordura with a Polyurethane coating on the back side. The intent is to have the internal frame carry the entire load rather than the fabric shell carrying the load as a way of avoiding tearing the fabric.
If you are handy with modest woodworking skills and can sew or know somebody that can sew for you, you might consider making such a container for yourself. I will use this thread to detail the idea so that you can make your own if you are so inclined.
Ill start with the hanger. I’m sure there are other ways to pull this off but here is what I did. The internal structure is paracord running up all four corners and each cord needs to be adjusted/tensioned to make the bag hang level. The hanger is made from a small block of wood, some cord and tubing to protect the cord. The additional holes are for tensioning the paracord corners of the bag.
The top and bottom of the structure are again a wooden frame and lightweight composite wood such as is used for clipboards or lightweight plywood but other materials will also work. The middle of the frame is also thin strips of wood that you will see shortly. The lower portion of the frame becomes the support for boots.
The top section supports a closet rod for your hanging gear. The rod is not fixed so that it hangs low enough to hook a hanger over it without interfering with the fabric bag yet can move up and out of the way when the frame is collapsed during transport. That is also accomplished with paracord.
The frame is then assembled by running the paracord through all the wooden pieces and knots tied in the cord to properly position the two thin strips of wood in the center. For organizational purposes, zippered mesh bag are attached to the frame before the outer skin is attached. These bags are for your smaller items like releases, rangefinders, socks, floppy or knit hats, etc. The bottom tray supports two pair of boots (I wear size 13 so I made the bag larger than my boots) and the hanger hold you jackets, pants etc. I have loaded this frame with 75 pounds of weight with no negative effects to the frame or cord. My clothing does not weigh anywhere near that much. When empty this frame collapses down to a very thin footprint and weighs about 3 pounds.
The outer skin is a 500 denier Cordura for it durability in the field and its PU coating has the ability to keep odors out and O3 in. Duffle bags, boot uppers and fanny packs use this fabric because its strong and durable.
The bag is sewn inside out and then inverted so the stitching and seams don’t show.
Two zippers are added to access the contents of the bag. A rain flap is attached over the horizontal zipper. A slit is cut in the back for the power cord of the O3 unit (should you elect to power it from a wall outlet or cig lighter on your truck.) A fifth mesh bag (not shown) is attached to the top of the frame to hold the O3 unit. The slit for the power cord is located near that mesh bag.
Four small holes are poked in the top of the bag to run the paracord to the hanger. The bag is slightly taller than the frame so the frame bears the weight of the contents and not the bag.
One half of the Velcro combination is sewn into the top of the bag sewn into a webbing strap that reaches the bottom of the bag (when collapsed) and the other half of the Velcro is sewn into the bottom of the bag so that when collapsed, the bag holds its small footprint for transport.
I even went so far as to create my own packaging to protect the bag during transport but a sewn bag (like is used with pop up blind) would also work.
So my patent search indicated that there are many patents for wardrobes, and travel bags and portable closets and even some for O3 products even if they are not in production so Im sharing it here for those interested in making their own. If you’re an O3 user looking for a more transportable container that is a bit more organized than a plastic tote. You may consider making one of these. After using two of them (I kept one at home and another went with my on my trips) I am pleased with the practicality and usability of this portable closet. It holds all my gear (and then some.) It measures 14 by 28 by 48 or about 19,000 cubic inches (11 cubic feet) of storage when expanded but only takes up 5,500 cubic inches during transport or 29% of it’s expanded size. If your like me you want something other than a plastic tote with more organization and capacity to use with your O3 equipment.